Sat 22nd March
I arrive in the heat of the afternoon sun and am met at Bagdogra airport by a real Indian tea lady - Neha Lochan owner of Doke Tea and daughter of Rajiv Lochan of Lochan Tea.
Their driver picks us up and I discover It's quite common to have a driver. I'm beginning to realise why. Although less chaotic then Delhi there are still no rules on this dusty road to Silliguri, a busy bustling affair. A little less congested with motorised traffic but other less familiar obstacles, well at least less familiar on an English road, seem more common. As we honk our way past, various vehicles, rickshaws, goats and cows. I learn that the stray cows which often stand or lie in the middle of the road, aren't strays at all. They belong to local farmers and actually find their way back home after a day grazing and roaming the streets. As we head on into Silliguri I catch my first glimpse of tea growing on the low flat plans. This is referred to as CTC tea (Cut Tear Curl) or tea bag tea.
I arrive in the heat of the afternoon sun and am met at Bagdogra airport by a real Indian tea lady - Neha Lochan owner of Doke Tea and daughter of Rajiv Lochan of Lochan Tea.
Their driver picks us up and I discover It's quite common to have a driver. I'm beginning to realise why. Although less chaotic then Delhi there are still no rules on this dusty road to Silliguri, a busy bustling affair. A little less congested with motorised traffic but other less familiar obstacles, well at least less familiar on an English road, seem more common. As we honk our way past, various vehicles, rickshaws, goats and cows. I learn that the stray cows which often stand or lie in the middle of the road, aren't strays at all. They belong to local farmers and actually find their way back home after a day grazing and roaming the streets. As we head on into Silliguri I catch my first glimpse of tea growing on the low flat plans. This is referred to as CTC tea (Cut Tear Curl) or tea bag tea.
We slip off down a quiet side street and ascend into the cool calm office. The sweet smell of tea fills the air. Although it's a Saturday the staff are busy packing orders in a room filled with a delightful blend of vintage tea signs, china and religious shrines.
Rajiv is most welcoming and his son Vivek soon joins us. Everyone makes me feel right at home as I sip and savour my first cup of real Darjeeling tea and Noodle joins me!
Rajiv is most welcoming and his son Vivek soon joins us. Everyone makes me feel right at home as I sip and savour my first cup of real Darjeeling tea and Noodle joins me!
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I experience my first Indian tea tasting and immediately fall in love with Nehas divinely delicious hand made Doke tea. My taste buds are tantalised further by a real homemade lunch which the Lochan tea family kindly share with me. A wonderfully relaxed informal affair in Rajivs office.
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There is just enough time for me to meet the rest of the family including Nehas lovely Labrador, before Neha and Vivek kindly accompany me up to Goomtee. Their skilful Driver negotiates the ever increasing, ever tighter, twists and turns of the road as it winds its way up the steep hill. We stop briefly to admire the view and look out across at the huge landslide which has buried part of the road and the famous Toy train line.
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We finally arrived at Goomtee just before sunset and alight the beautiful flower filled steps up to the classic British built bungalow. It has stood on this wonderful spot for over 100 years. Shantanu Kejriwal owner of Jungpana Tea greets us and joins us as we sit and chat in the large airy sitting room. It's High elaborate carved ceilings give it an appropriate regal air, as tea is served in glass tea cups along with a very English biscuit, a chocolate bourbon - an unexpected treat.
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As Neha and Vivek take their leave and head on back home, the day turns to night. The peace and quiet is suddenly broken by a crack of thunder and a flash of lightening. The house is plunged into darkness. Luckily I soon locate my head torch and after a few moments light is restored and I carried on sipping my tea. I wander into the vast dining room and wonder if anyone else is staying here? Just then a group of young gentlemen appear and introduce themselves one by one. They just happen to be making a film about Jangpana tea - how exciting! We soon get talking over a delicious freshly prepared buffet and I ask if I can join them on there film mission tomorrow. They said that would fine but they'd be leaving at 5.30am. It was too good an opportunity to miss. Time for an early night in the enormous bedroom!
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